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New Cordless Tools and Brushless Motors

Posted by on Nov 27, 2013 in New Tool Info | 0 comments

Everyone loves cordless tools but if you have not really looked at the new cordless everyone is coming out with, the rage in cordless are the brushless motors pushing cordless to a new level.  A motor that does not have brushes make for a motor that runs cooler, last longer and develops much more power. Most everyone is using a brushless 4 pole motor instead of a 2 pole brush type motor. Still not the power and run time of plug in tools but it sure is getting close.
Brushless means a lighter tool
Since there are no brushes the result is a lighter tool

Brushless means a smaller motor.
Since brushes have been eliminated the motors are about 1-1/2” shorter.

Brushless Means longer motor life.
With no brushes creating heat at the center of the tool everything is cooler resulting in longer life of everything in the tool. This results in longer motor life as a result of reduced friction, less heat buildup, and higher efficiency. Reduced heat results in longer life from switches, bearings and of course the transmission. Brushless technology and a  4 pole
motor gets you anywhere from twice to 4 times the power over conventional cordless.

Advanced Battery Technology
Add the new Lithium battery technology with extended run time with up to 4 amp hour batteries and beyond which in some cases are almost 3 times the run time of batteries  that some kits were coming with just a few years ago.

Brushless Motor Technology—less  weight, smaller tools for getting into tight spots and more power. Of course these new tools cost a little more but everything has a price. As these tools get more popular the cost is sure to come down.

Bandsaw 101

Posted by on Nov 14, 2013 in Tool Repair Problems | 0 comments

So you have a Bandsaw, now the trick is to learn all it can do. Wait, one of the most important things is set-up and tune up. Today we are going to review the initial blade set up.
Step 1 — Adjust the Tracking
Start by backing off the upper and lower blade guides. Raise the upper blade guide to the height you are going to use it most of the time. With the upper door open slowly rotate the wheel watching where the blade is tracking on the upper wheel. If the blade is not centered on the wheel, slowly adjust the wheel tilt on the upper wheel while turning the upper wheel and watch the tracking until you get it in the center of the upper wheel.
Step 2– Adjust the blade tension.
This is assuming you are using a standard carbon or bi-metal band saw blade.
This is the part that brings more discussion than anything else. Start with using the blade tension guide and adjust your blade to this mark and next tighten it a little more while plucking the blade like a guitar string. A lower sound like a bass sound indicates a blade that is too loose. What you want is a high pitched sound for a properly tensioned blade. Regardless if you are resawing or cutting a 1/4″ thick piece a blade that is improperly tensioned will create tracking problems or a Resaw cut that is not straight. For those using a 14″ Bandsaw, Carter makes a tension spring known as the Cobra Coil that is made from a stronger steel that makes it easier to get the proper tension for resawing.
Many of the 14″ bandsaws use a tensioning spring with a weaker tensile strength.
Step 3– Adjust your blade guides.
Start with bringing the guides forward so that when cutting pressure is placed on the blade the gullet (the gullet is the valley portion of the blade between the tips of the teeth) Is even with the front edge of the blade guide. The gullet should never be behind the leading edge of the guides on the side of the blade. Now bring the side blade guides in so that it is within the thickness of a piece of paper to the side of the blade without moving or deflecting the blade. Don’t forget the lower blade guide.
Step 4– Adjust your table to 90 degrees to the blade. Set it, wait and double check the table angle.
Step 5– Select the correct band saw blade.
Don’t try to Resaw with a 6 tooth blade and Don’t try to use a 3 tooth blade for cutting 1/2″ material.

Now you are ready to cut and make some sawdust.
Don’t forget a push stick to keep your fingers out of the danger zone. If a blade breaks or comes off you never know where it will go.

#bandsaw  #bandsawresaw #bandsawsetup

Nail Gun Maintenance

Posted by on Oct 25, 2013 in Tool Repair Problems | 8 comments

Over 50% of the nail gun problems we see come in for repair are caused by improper lubrication.

Many guns made by Senco as well as some of the new Porter-Cable guns and some others have special orings and are designed not to be oiled. But if you do oil them it damages the o rings.
But not oiling a gun that takes oil is just as bad. Always use a name brand oil if your gun requires oil. We use the Senco PC0101 oil in all the guns we repair that take oil.

Never use WD-40 or motor oil in your guns. These will make the orings swell so that the gun does not work correctly.

For the track lubrication we use a pure silicone lubricant to keep the feed spring and safety working smoothly.
When you use WD-40 on the track the oil in the WD-40 just attracts dirt and sawdust. Not a good thing.
#nailgun

Diablo Ultimate Flawless Finish Alternate Shear Saw Blade

Posted by on Oct 17, 2013 in New Tool Info | 0 comments

Freud Diablo has a new grind on the D1090X,  D12100X and now the D1040A & D1040X. The 40 tooth blade is great for those table saws with motors of 1-1/2 horsepower and less.

While most saw blades have teeth with the face ground at a 90 degree angle to the plate of the saw blade the Diablo Ultimate Flawless Finish Shear Blade the face of the tooth is set to a 10 degree  alternate shear angle giving it a smooth slicing action.

A 30 degree Hi-ATB (alternate top bevel) top grind and an Axial Alternate Shear Face Grind that cuts or slices more like a spiral router bit, while reducing motor load and an  giving an unbelievable cut on trim and sheet goods. Add a zero clearance blade insert to your table saw for splinter free cuts on plywood.