Cutting a 1/4″ or even a 1/2″ rabbet with your router is no big deal but when you need a rabbet larger than 1/2″ then what.
Sure you could do it on the tablesaw with a Dado but what about a radius cut or a piece too large to handle on your table saw.
Amana has a rabbett bit called a Superabbet™.
The superabbet bit comes set up to do a 5/8″ or 3/4″ rabbet but with an optional 67600 set of collars you can do rabbetts in 1/16″ graduations. Always looking for a way to do the impossible
For other tips and tricks or to ask a question check out our blog @
Amana 49360 Superabbet
We often get this question, but the answer depends on what shape you are cutting and what type of saw you will be using.
While you can use a circular saw or table saw the preferred way is with a miter saw.
First you need a way to clamp the material in place. If the blade grabs the material during the cut it can pinch the blade and damage the blade and can also hurt the operator, for this reason you want it clamped in place.
Always wear safety glasses when cutting or grinding any type of metal.
When cutting aluminum, brass or bronze you need a blade specially designed for cutting non ferrous material. These blades have a special grade of carbide for aluminum, a triple chip top grind and a zero or negative hook angle.
Next you will get better results and longer blade life if you use a lubricant. There are many types but a wax stick which is actually more like a special grease, or WD-40 is easy to apply while the blade is spinning.
All of the major blade manufacturers offer non ferrous blades for cutting Aluminum. The Amana and Freud are a full kerf of .125″ which reduces the trend to flex if you are cutting a lot, while the Tenryu and Diablo offer blades with a thinner kerf which puts less load on the motor and cuts easier, really useful if your saw is under powered.
Lastly pick the correct tooth count for the thickness of what you are cutting. Blade Manufacturing makes a hss blade with 200 teeth for cutting really thin aluminum, say window screen track, but for most material being cut a carbide blade with 8 teeth per diameter inch will do well, 10″x 80 tooth is a good example.
For cutting 1/16 thru 1/8 material use 10 teeth per diameter inch, 10″ x 100 tooth or a 12″ x 120 teeth.
For 1/8 inch thru 1/4 inch material use a blade with 8 teeth per diameter inch, 10″x80 teeth or a 12″ x 96 teeth.
For material thicker than 1/4 inch use a blade with 6 teeth per diameter inch, 10″ x 60 teeth or 12″ x 72 tooth.
Special note: Can also be used to cut ACM (Aluminum Composite Material) such as (Alucobond®, Dibond®, etc) Phenolics and other hard plastics.
For other tips and tricks or to ask a question check out our blog @
Here on the gulf coast a hammer drill is of little use for drilling into a concrete slab because the rock used in the concrete is very, very hard just as it is in many parts of the country.
A hammer drill works with a larger number of blows per minute but it does not hit hard enough to break thru the rock used along the gulf coast. It will however work fine in a brick or cinder block wall.
A rotary hammer hits slower but with an impact force 2 to 3 times over a hammer drill.
One way to know the difference is a hammer drill has a 3 jaw Chuck where a rotary hammer has either a Spline drive or a sds-plus or a sds-max depending on the capacity and many rotary hammers have a three mode operation. Hammer mode for drilling in concrete, a rotation only mode for drilling in wood and a chipping mode for chipping concrete or removing tile and thinset mortar.
A hammer drill has two “hammer dogs” that mechanically “rub” together to make its impact. Rotary hammers use pneumatic pistons to generate their impact energy, and don’t have metal-on-metal wear and tear.
Bosch is our preferred line of Rotary Hammers the Bosch 11255 VSR is a great hammer for holes up to 1″ as well as removing tiles and light concrete chipping.
The rotary hammer will outlast even the best hammer drill and the bits have a better grade of carbide for serious concrete work.
Here is a quick and simple way to know what size bearing to use for different Rabbet Bit depths
To determine the correct bearing size for a Rabbet Bit
Take the O.D. of the rabbet bit minus the desired rabbet depth times 2
Here is an example:
OD of bit = 1-3/8″
Desired rabbet times 2
1/2″ rabbet * (x) 2= 1″
1 3/8″ – 1″ = 3/8 bearing od needed for a 1/2″ rabbet
Of coarse you will need to measure you bit to figure out the correct I.D. of the bearing
Here is a link to Amana Tools List of common router bit bearings
With more and more attention being given to the cancer causing effects of many of the tropical hardwoods as well as some domestic woods proper dust collection is getting more important as we learn more about wood dust and their effect on us.
With a canister style dust collector that can filter the airborne dust that many are breathing can help reduce you change of the many health problems associated with breathing excessive amounts of dust.
Problems can range from asthma and allergies from breathing Westen Red Cedar to pulmonary (breathing and lung problems) to cancer from some woods.
Problems can also arise from something as simple as a splinter from woods such as wenge. Splinters can become septic which is a severe infection require medical attention.
While not everyone can afford the best dust collectors around at the very least invest in a good dust mask
to protect your lungs and sinuses and use them on a regular basis.
Stay safe and have fun in the shop.
A few weeks ago one of my sons called and said hey Dad can you help me remove a ceramic soap dish in the shower that broke itself.
While there are many ways to remove a ceramic soap dish the easiest by far is a oscillating tool
if you have one. Any of the Fein or Bosch perform great and who doesn’t need an excuse to buy a new tool that you have been wanting for a long time now.
Not knowing if this was a flush mount or recessed soap dish I took my trusty oscillating tool, the longest bi metal blade I had and headed out.
After putting a few towels on the shower floor to catch the pieces when it decided to turn loose and come bounding my way, donned the safety glasses just in case and grabbed the shop vac and got down to business.
Not knowing if it was a flush mount or recessed and never having tackled the task, I started at a slower speed and went all the way around the dish and removed the grout about 1/2″ from the edge. Next we turned the speed all the way up and started cutting is a back and forth motion along the top, next moving to the sides and then to the bottom. Didn’t make it very far on the bottom before the entire dish jumped off the wall. Good thing for the towels.
Thats when we discovered is was infact a recessed mount but that was easy enough to deal with. We just cut thru the grout inside the adjoining tiles, removing the recessed portion and then remove the grout from the tiles that surround the recessed portion.
A side note if you have a blade that is straight on the edge you can use the edge of the blade to chip off the last bit of grout, just start at a slow speed, until you get a feel for this operation.
Start to finish 45 minutes.
When we were done my son said he thought we were going to have to use chisels and a hammer, while you could do it that way you would also magnify the chances of damaging the surrounding tiles. I hate making extra work for myself….