When looking for the perfect saw blade for your table saw one of the first things to consider is the horsepower of your saw. While a 3 horsepower 220 volt or larger will do fine with a full kerf saw blade, lesser powered table saws such as contractor saws and bench top saws will do better with a thin kerf blade. A thin kerf blade will put less drain on your motor so that it does not slow down as much as a full kerf blade. You can certainly use full kerf blades on the lower powered saws, just realize they will not cut as fast. A full kerf blade is determined by the thickness of the carbide. A full kerf blade is .125″ while a thin kerf blade usually runs in the neighborhood of .093″ For ripping material on a 10″ table saw you want to be in the range of 18-30 teeth. For crosscutting, 60-80 teeth will give you a cleaner cut. If you are a one size fits all type of person a 40 or 50 tooth blade will do ok in all operations, but excels in none.
Zero Clearance Insert
For applications where you need a splinter free cut on both sides of sheet goods (plywood and melamine) a blade with an ATB or a Hi-ATB top grind and a hook angle ranging from a +2 degrees to a -6 degrees will give you the best cut; and, if you want the absolute best cuts add a zero clearance blade insert and size it to the blade you are using for sheet goods. My favorite for a great crosscut or for cutting sheet goods is an ATAF blade. While not every manufacturer offers these, Tenryu, Diablo and Freud do. If you look closely, not only is the top of the tooth an alternating bevel ( hence the term atb ) but the face of the tooth also has a bevel, actually referred to as a shear angle, which slices through the material drawing less power from the motor but also giving a super clean cut. This tooth geometry is similar to a spiral router bit in that it shears more than cuts. Image courtesy of Tenryu Saw Blades Saw blades are like shoes, pick them wisely and they will give you long service for years to come,buy cheap ones and you will be replacing them soon and complaining all the time.
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Cutting a 1/4″ or even a 1/2″ rabbet with your router is no big deal but when you need a rabbet larger than 1/2″ then what.
Sure you could do it on the tablesaw with a Dado but what about a radius cut or a piece too large to handle on your table saw.
Amana has a rabbett bit called a Superabbet™.
The superabbet bit comes set up to do a 5/8″ or 3/4″ rabbet but with an optional 67600 set of collars you can do rabbetts in 1/16″ graduations. Always looking for a way to do the impossible
For other tips and tricks or to ask a question check out our blog @
Amana 49360 Superabbet
We often get this question, but the answer depends on what shape you are cutting and what type of saw you will be using.
While you can use a circular saw or table saw the preferred way is with a miter saw.
First you need a way to clamp the material in place. If the blade grabs the material during the cut it can pinch the blade and damage the blade and can also hurt the operator, for this reason you want it clamped in place.
Always wear safety glasses when cutting or grinding any type of metal.
When cutting aluminum, brass or bronze you need a blade specially designed for cutting non ferrous material. These blades have a special grade of carbide for aluminum, a triple chip top grind and a zero or negative hook angle.
Next you will get better results and longer blade life if you use a lubricant. There are many types but a wax stick which is actually more like a special grease, or WD-40 is easy to apply while the blade is spinning.
All of the major blade manufacturers offer non ferrous blades for cutting Aluminum. The Amana and Freud are a full kerf of .125″ which reduces the trend to flex if you are cutting a lot, while the Tenryu and Diablo offer blades with a thinner kerf which puts less load on the motor and cuts easier, really useful if your saw is under powered.
Lastly pick the correct tooth count for the thickness of what you are cutting. Blade Manufacturing makes a hss blade with 200 teeth for cutting really thin aluminum, say window screen track, but for most material being cut a carbide blade with 8 teeth per diameter inch will do well, 10″x 80 tooth is a good example.
For cutting 1/16 thru 1/8 material use 10 teeth per diameter inch, 10″ x 100 tooth or a 12″ x 120 teeth.
For 1/8 inch thru 1/4 inch material use a blade with 8 teeth per diameter inch, 10″x80 teeth or a 12″ x 96 teeth.
For material thicker than 1/4 inch use a blade with 6 teeth per diameter inch, 10″ x 60 teeth or 12″ x 72 tooth.
Special note: Can also be used to cut ACM (Aluminum Composite Material) such as (Alucobond®, Dibond®, etc) Phenolics and other hard plastics.
For other tips and tricks or to ask a question check out our blog @
Here on the gulf coast a hammer drill is of little use for drilling into a concrete slab because the rock used in the concrete is very, very hard just as it is in many parts of the country.
A hammer drill works with a larger number of blows per minute but it does not hit hard enough to break thru the rock used along the gulf coast. It will however work fine in a brick or cinder block wall.
A rotary hammer hits slower but with an impact force 2 to 3 times over a hammer drill.
One way to know the difference is a hammer drill has a 3 jaw Chuck where a rotary hammer has either a Spline drive or a sds-plus or a sds-max depending on the capacity and many rotary hammers have a three mode operation. Hammer mode for drilling in concrete, a rotation only mode for drilling in wood and a chipping mode for chipping concrete or removing tile and thinset mortar.
A hammer drill has two “hammer dogs” that mechanically “rub” together to make its impact. Rotary hammers use pneumatic pistons to generate their impact energy, and don’t have metal-on-metal wear and tear.
Bosch is our preferred line of Rotary Hammers the Bosch 11255 VSR is a great hammer for holes up to 1″ as well as removing tiles and light concrete chipping.
The rotary hammer will outlast even the best hammer drill and the bits have a better grade of carbide for serious concrete work.
Here is a quick and simple way to know what size bearing to use for different Rabbet Bit depths
To determine the correct bearing size for a Rabbet Bit
Take the O.D. of the rabbet bit minus the desired rabbet depth times 2
Here is an example:
OD of bit = 1-3/8″
Desired rabbet times 2
1/2″ rabbet * (x) 2= 1″
1 3/8″ – 1″ = 3/8 bearing od needed for a 1/2″ rabbet
Of coarse you will need to measure you bit to figure out the correct I.D. of the bearing
Here is a link to Amana Tools List of common router bit bearings