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Posted by on Jan 14, 2016 in Woodworking Tips and Tricks | 0 comments

Chip Free Cuts In Plywood

Circle Saw, tools are our only business

Are you pulling your hair out trying to get chip free cuts in plywood with the super thin veneer we are getting these days.


In addition to using a saw blade with a high ATB grind on the teeth and a zero or near zero hook angle on your saw blade, a zero clearance blade insert supports the plywood as the blade exits the plywood giving it support right up to the edge of the blade. Use one for different kerf blades and one for bevel cuts from 0 to 22-1/2 degrees and one for cuts from 22-1/2 to 45 degree cuts. zero clearance insert for tablesaw

If your saw is not 220 volt powered try using a thin kerf blade if your splitter or riving knife will allow it. With a thin kerf blade you have less drag on the motor keeping the R.P.M.’s up and allowing the saw to cut better by maintaining the proper speed. A few of my favorites are the Tenryu Miter Pro  which has a .118 kerf or the Diablo D1080x which has a .098 kerf. Both of these blades have an alternate top bevel as well as a alternate shear face so they work more like a spiral router bit slicing the wood.

Zero Clearance insert can be found here. 

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Posted by on Nov 5, 2015 in Woodworking Tips and Tricks | 0 comments

How to make your sandpaper last longer

Here it is, for the first time on our blog, a little known secret on how to increase the use and lower your cost on sandpaper.

If you are gluing up flat stock, either for a cabinet door panel or a table top,  before you put your sandpaper on the job take a card scraper and run it along the glue line to scrape off the excess glue. The card scraper will go a long way to saving your sandpaper and keep the glue from burning into the paper.

Hold the card scraper at about a 75-80 degree angle and pull the scraper towards you. Flexing the scraper will make a more aggressive cut. Plus if you grind a slight radius in the outside corners it will insure you don’t leave lines in your work, just in case you accidentally take a deeper cut than necessary.

Ask 2 people how to do something and you will get 3 answers. I prefer to pull a card scraper, some would rather push away from them. Which ever works best for you is the proper way to do it. There is no wrong way. On one side you will feel a slight burr and this is how it cuts. If you prefer a more aggressive cut  it can be sharpened or burnished which is the proper term. You will find many opinions on the correct way to do this as well.

Another overlooked tool is Baxter Creek’s Sander Sitter.

I wish they could have come up with a better name because many think this is just a place to sit your sander down. In reality, it is to a random orbit sander, just what a belt cleaner is to a belt sander.

While placing a running disc sander into the Sander Sitter the cleaning pad inside cleans the resin and pitch from your paper. The sander sitter can extend the life of your paper 3-4 times, if you use it on a regular basis. In addition you don’t have to wait for the sander to wind down to a complete stop.  Per the instructions don’t forget to condition the Sander Sitter pad by placing a small amount of sawdust on the pad the first time you use it. sander sitter saves sandpaper


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Posted by on Jun 29, 2015 in Woodworking Tips and Tricks | 0 comments

How to Prevent Tear-out in Your Next Project

Tear-out can definitely wreak havoc on your project and ruin a beautiful piece of wood. There are many ways to minimize tear-out, but knowing how to read the wood direction and knowing which direction to plane or joint your material is the first thing you should learn.

Regardless of whether you are using hand tools or power tools, one trick is to plane or joint your material at an angle to reduce tear-out.

Below is a link to a video lesson from our friends at Fine Woodworking.  Michael Pekovich from Fine Working takes you through the steps and methods you can use to figure out the direction of the grain and the best way to plane or joint your material. You can find the magazine @

By the way, there is an ad at the beginning of the video but you can skip it after just a minute or so. This is an excellent lesson on how to prevent tear-out; a big shout-out to our  friends at Fine Woodworking. Go here —


View other tips & tricks here 


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Posted by on Feb 5, 2015 in Woodworking Tips and Tricks | 0 comments

Advantages of Self Leveling Lasers

The title says it all.

gll2 laser makes your carpentry tasks simple


I know there are still people who do not believe a laser is as accurate as their trusted transit or plumb bob; but, I’d venture to guess that is because they have not tried one. The reality is these lasers do exactly what their name says – they are self leveling and, more importantly, they are accurate.

The next time you see a road crew or a surveying company in town, check out what they are using. Most of the professionals have switched to lasers and that is why transit companies are now making lasers. If the lasers didn’t work professionals wouldn’t use them and the market for them would not dictate that transit companies start producing them.

Any place or application where you would use a chalk line or a plumb bob there is a laser to do the job, faster, easier and just as accurately.

Need to lay floor tile ?

use the gtl3 for laying tile , gives 90 degree and 45 degree lines projected on the floor

Use the gtl3 for laying tile , gives you a 90 degree and 45 degree lines projected on the floor.

For example, here are a few applications you may not have considered:

  • hanging wallpaper –  or anywhere you need a true vertical line on a wall or in the middle of a room
  • drop ceiling applications – for getting that ceiling level
  • fencing – the easiest way to get your post all the same height i have ever used
  • setting upper cabinets for height do i need to explain this ?
  • running chair rail- what can i say  it produces a level line around a room or down a hallway
  • transferring stud locations for hanging cabinets – have you ever missed a stud when hanging cabinets, well no more
  • ceiling light fixture placement – lay out your new light fixtures on the floor and transfer the location to the ceiling. this is where a dot or point laser excels and works perfect for vaulted ceilings and great rooms

For even better accuracy and versatility add a tripod, instead of having to measure from a reference point you can put the line wherever you need it

gll3-50 includes some really neat feet and a wall bracket with a nagnet built in

gll3-50 includes some really neat feet and a wall bracket with a magnet built in

Convinced? You will find just the laser you need, many of them at special prices. Plus, for a limited time we include a free tripod. All you need to do is start shopping! 


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Posted by on Aug 27, 2014 in New Tool Info, Tool Repair Problems, Woodworking Tips and Tricks | 0 comments

Ni-cad vs Lithium-Ion Batteries

Check out our latest video on Ni-ad Cordless Tools and Batteries vs the newest Lithium-Ion battery technology

Filming courtesy of Tom Tynan and Home Show Radio  



Steady advances in voltage and applications have made cordless tools the first choice on most projects for you and professionals. For years NiCad (Nickel Cadmium) batteries reigned supreme. Recently, though, they’ve been displaced by newer Lithium Ion battery technology.

Lithium-ion batteries are smaller in size, require less maintenance and are environmentally safer than Nickel-cadmium (NiCad) batteries. While they have similarities, Li-ion and NiCd batteries differ in their chemical composition, environmental impact, applications and costs.

Which battery is right for your cordless tool?

That depends on the job and your wallet. Typically, Lithium-ion batteries are smaller and lighter than a NiCad battery. Lithium-ion also two to three times more expensive than NiCad. On the other hand, Lithium-ion has virtually no self-discharge. This allows a lithium ion battery to be stored for months without losing charge.

One does not provide more power than the other. An 18V Lithium-ion battery has the same potential to deliver power as an 18V NiCad battery.18V is 18V. How long it provides it is another story. The best measure of run time is how many holes are drilled or how many boards cut on a single battery charge. In this test, Lithium-ion battery-powered tools win.

That has more to do with the efficiency of the tool than the battery itself. Brushless motors in most Lithium-ion-powered tools make better use of battery power. That leads to the misconception that the battery has more power.

NiCad batteries range in capacity from 1.3Ah to 3.0Ah. In comparison, Lithium-ion batteries range from 1.1Ah to 3.0Ah. Just as the gas tank size is only one factor in how far a vehicle can drive on a tank of gas, applications per battery charge factor in voltage, capacity and the efficiency of the tool. Clear as mud?

NiCad batteries

Nickel-cadmium batteries suffer from a “memory effect.” The battery remembers the point in their charge cycle where recharging began. During subsequent uses, voltage will drop at that point as if it had been discharged. That’s why it’s wise that you use a NiCad battery until it’s totally dead before recharging With this kind of proper use, a nickel-cadmium battery can last for 1,000+ cycles before losing capacity.

Lithium-ion batteries

Lithium-ion batteries, on the other hand, are low maintenance. They resist the “memory effect” and tolerate a wider ranged of temperatures. Their only serious drawback is fragility. They also require protection circuit to keep working safely.

Both will perform for roughly the same number of cycles. While the Lithium-ion battery may provide more voltage, it does so at significantly higher cost compared to a NiCad battery.

Since absolute performance is roughly equal, choosing between Lithium-ion and NiCad batteries come down to simple differences: Lighter, longer-lasting and more expensive, or heavier, more consumable and cheaper. The choice is yours.

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Posted by on Jul 10, 2014 in New Tool Info, Show off your latest project, Tool Repair Problems, Woodworking Tips and Tricks | 0 comments

IMPORTANT! Porter-Cable Recall

We’ve just learned that Porter-Cable has determined that because the handles on the 3 H.P fixed based routers are not insulated, a user could be shocked. Clearly, this represents a serious potential hazard which has prompted Porter Cable to issue this recall. The following models are affected by this recall:

  • 7518 5-speed
  • 7519 1-speed
  • 7519 EC 1-speed/has an extended chuck22
  • 7519-60 1-speed/uses 220-volt power source
How to resolve:

Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled routers and router bases, unplug the routers and contact Porter-Cable for a free replacement router base with insulation on the handles. Porter-Cable can be contacted toll-free at (888) 344-7973 from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. ET Monday through Friday; by email at , or online at On the website you will need to click on Important Safety Notice/Recalls (at the very bottom of the page), then select 2014 for more information

Porter Cable Recalls 3-1/4 H.P. Routers

Porter Cable Recalls 3-1/4 H.P. Routers

Courtesy of the Consumer Product Safety Commission

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