Are you pulling your hair out trying to get chip free cuts in plywood with the super thin veneer we are getting these days.
In addition to using a saw blade with a high ATB grind on the teeth and a zero or near zero hook angle on your saw blade, a zero clearance blade insert supports the plywood as the blade exits the plywood giving it support right up to the edge of the blade. Use one for different kerf blades and one for bevel cuts from 0 to 22-1/2 degrees and one for cuts from 22-1/2 to 45 degree cuts.
If your saw is not 220 volt powered try using a thin kerf blade if your splitter or riving knife will allow it. With a thin kerf blade you have less drag on the motor keeping the R.P.M.’s up and allowing the saw to cut better by maintaining the proper speed. A few of my favorites are the Tenryu Miter Pro which has a .118 kerf or the Diablo D1080x which has a .098 kerf. Both of these blades have an alternate top bevel as well as a alternate shear face so they work more like a spiral router bit slicing the wood.
Zero Clearance insert can be found here.
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Here it is, for the first time on our blog, a little known secret on how to increase the use and lower your cost on sandpaper.
If you are gluing up flat stock, either for a cabinet door panel or a table top, before you put your sandpaper on the job take a card scraper and run it along the glue line to scrape off the excess glue. The card scraper will go a long way to saving your sandpaper and keep the glue from burning into the paper.
Hold the card scraper at about a 75-80 degree angle and pull the scraper towards you. Flexing the scraper will make a more aggressive cut. Plus if you grind a slight radius in the outside corners it will insure you don’t leave lines in your work, just in case you accidentally take a deeper cut than necessary.
Ask 2 people how to do something and you will get 3 answers. I prefer to pull a card scraper, some would rather push away from them. Which ever works best for you is the proper way to do it. There is no wrong way. On one side you will feel a slight burr and this is how it cuts. If you prefer a more aggressive cut it can be sharpened or burnished which is the proper term. You will find many opinions on the correct way to do this as well.
Another overlooked tool is Baxter Creek’s Sander Sitter.
I wish they could have come up with a better name because many think this is just a place to sit your sander down. In reality, it is to a random orbit sander, just what a belt cleaner is to a belt sander.
While placing a running disc sander into the Sander Sitter the cleaning pad inside cleans the resin and pitch from your paper. The sander sitter can extend the life of your paper 3-4 times, if you use it on a regular basis. In addition you don’t have to wait for the sander to wind down to a complete stop. Per the instructions don’t forget to condition the Sander Sitter pad by placing a small amount of sawdust on the pad the first time you use it.
Bearing and belt replacement
Just when you were making some real progress on your project, you hit the switch on your router and–nothing happens.
A few tips to keep your tools running.
Keep the dust out, blow the dust out of your tools using your trusty compressor, just make sure you have drained the tank. You want to use dry air to blow the sawdust out not air mixed water. This might be the time to do a little pm on the compressor also. Check your air filter as well as the oil level, unless of course it is an oil less compressor. Might even change the oil if you can’t remember the last time you changed it. Make sure you are using a name brand compressor oil or a non detergent oil per the compressor manufacturers recommendations —not regular motor oil.
Handheld tools– check the brushes for wear, and the strength of the spring.
Inspect your cord.
If you hear bearing noise stop and replace them before you burn up the motor. As bearings start to fail they but unbelievable stress on the motor. Just a few tips.
Take a look at some of our previous post on tool maintenance below .
Do you have a question, you can post your questions here or email me @ bill at circlesaw.com
just replace the at with the @ symbol.
Nail Gun Repair
The world of cordless tools continues to be a race to see who can come out with a bigger battery first and who can develop a tool with a more powerful motor.
festool 18 volt 4 mode drill
From Festool, the new 4 in 1 drill features a four-speed gearbox which provides loads of torque for hogging out material with large diameter drill bits and then quickly switches over to deliver 3,800 RPMs to blast through concrete with its hammer drill functionality. Of course this features a brushless motor, as their drills have for years, with a 5.2 li-ion battery. The Festool 4 in 1 ingeniously combines a drill, hammer drill and impact all in one tool. In addition they have a new cordless track saw that beats all.
cordless festool ts55c track saw
bosch wireless charging
Bosch has a new wireless charging system as well as a socket ready impact that will handle 1/2″ sockets turning out 1650 in-lbs of torque as well as your traditional 1/4″ shank bit tips. 5 and 6 amp batteries are now available.
5 AMP BATTERIES FROM DEWALT
With the increase of battery power to 5 amp and the “coming soon” 6 amp batteries, you are seeing cordless tools that just a few years ago were not even feasible. Dewalt has a new cordless miter saw with a vertical capacity for
baseboard against the fence of 3-1/2″, crown molding vertically nested of 3-5/8″ or crown or base lying flat. It will cut 8″ @ 90 degrees. In addition you’ll get a tig welder that runs on 120 volt power or an internal li-ion cordless battery allowing you to run about 15 sticks on a single charge in the cordless mode at 140 amps in the tig mode and weighs about 25 pounds, making it very portable.
milwaukee tool 48-11-1850 5 amp red lithium battery
- Milwaukee –With their latest Li-ion battery packs, Milwaukee doesn’t care about being first, they care about being the best.
- Milwaukee Tool has a very strong following in the brushless motor world and will soon release their 2nd generation Fuel Brushless with a 18 volt hammer drill with a wrist twisting 1200 in lbs or 100 ft pounds of torque and a 5 amp battery standard, a 2 speed gearbox topping out at 2000 r.p.m’s.
- Next up will be a 6 amp battery and a 9 amp battery. Stay tuned. The 9 Amp should be a great upgrade for high draw tools, portaband-circular saw-hole hawg right angle drill-hand planer- mag drill-sds rotary hammer and the like but not really intended for a traditional drill or impact.
- While it might not make sense to upgrade from a 4 to 5 amp battery, but if you have some of the older 3 amp batteries that are loosing their power and umph it might be time to upgrade your battery packs to the 6 amp when they arrive which will double your run time.
- In addition Milwaukee Tool has come up with a way to get even more power from a brushless motor with increased efficiency of the magnets hence the 1200 in-pounds of torque in the generation 2 brushless tools.
Be on the lookout for the 2897-22 due to start shipping in August 2015.
Check out our previous blog post on cordless
Tear-out can definitely wreak havoc on your project and ruin a beautiful piece of wood. There are many ways to minimize tear-out, but knowing how to read the wood direction and knowing which direction to plane or joint your material is the first thing you should learn.
Regardless of whether you are using hand tools or power tools, one trick is to plane or joint your material at an angle to reduce tear-out.
Below is a link to a video lesson from our friends at Fine Woodworking. Michael Pekovich from Fine Working takes you through the steps and methods you can use to figure out the direction of the grain and the best way to plane or joint your material. You can find the magazine @http://www.finewoodworking.com/
By the way, there is an ad at the beginning of the video but you can skip it after just a minute or so. This is an excellent lesson on how to prevent tear-out; a big shout-out to our friends at Fine Woodworking. Go here —
View other tips & tricks here
As spring looms near many are getting ready to bring their woodworking tools out; a little time spent now with a good cleanup routine can go a long way to making sure your tools are in good working order. Don’t forget, that well maintained tools are also safe tools.
First, make sure that your power tools are disconnected before performing any maintenance on them. Yes this would seem to be a no-brainer but it is very easy to get in the groove and simply forget this one basic but critical step.
The next thing you want to do is open up your motor and switch boxes and get rid of the sawdust that has accumulated in there. I don’t know about you but no matter how hard I try to avoid it, sawdust somehow manages to get in there anyway,
While cleaning out the motor and switch boxes make sure you have a good tight connection at the plug, the motor and the switch. No matter how smooth your saw, planer or joiner run, the vibration they create will, eventually, cause these connections to loosen enough to cause arcing problems. Or, worse yet, your tool won’t even start. Of course this is bound to happen right in the middle of a project, right?
You’ll find more tips from last year’s tune-up tips post; plus you can review all of our tool repair recommendations and you can be sure to keep your motor running.
Take the time now, you’ll be glad you did.